Fez was definitely my favorite city on our two-week trip in Morocco! Visiting Fez is a bit like traveling back in time 1,000 years. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is known as the soul of Morocco. Every neighborhood in this medieval city has five things: a public bakery where people can bring their homemade dough to bake, a mosque, a school, a fountain for access to water, and a public hammam (bath house).
Some people feel Marrakech has become too lavish and touristy, but Fez has maintained its medieval charm and traditions. Sure, there are now luxurious hotels and restaurants, but many aspects of Fez have remained unchanged for centuries. That makes it an incredibly interesting place to visit!
The tanneries of Fez where the world-class leather producing methods have remained virtually unchanged since the medieval times.
In this post, I’ll share with you the best things we did in this amazing city and things to consider to help you plan your trip. I’ll also share more background about Fez and my experience there so you can decide if it’s worth making a visit. I’d highly recommend it if you like experiencing different cultures!
Be Prepared to Get Lost in Fez
Walking through the walled city you are bound to get lost. Embrace it! There are more than 9,000 narrow streets to explore, and inside the medina you’ll have to do your exploring by foot.
Fez is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. Instead of cars, you’ll find donkeys, bikes, scooters and mostly people walking by foot. Wandering through Fez is such a treat! The colors, the sites, the smells -- there is so much culture and history to take in!
Its not uncommon for young people to approach tourists offering to show you the way or tell you the road you're going down is closed -- when it's not. This false information is meant to confuse you so you feel that you need their guidance.
My husband and I actually fell for the "road is closed" scam on our way to dinner one night. The young man who told us that took us another route but still brought us to the restaurant that we couldn't find. In the end, he asked for money. Then he said it was not enough, so we gave him a few extra bucks and he left us alone. It was a little uncomfortable, but honestly the guidance was helpful! Apparently this is a common practice but violence is not -- they just want to earn a few dollars (albeit in a tricky way!)
I found that people are nice in Fez. If you get lost, ask a shop owner. You can also often coordinate a porter through your hotel or restaurant who can walk you to your destination.
Taking a Photography Tour in Fez
Before we dive into the good stuff, I wanted to point out the photos! Almost all of these were taken on a photography tour of Fez.
One afternoon my husband had to work for a few hours, so I booked myself a private photography tour with Omar Chennafi whose work has been seen in Time. It was awesome! He led me through the city making stops along the way to snap photos of stunning tile work, bustling markets, and artisans at work. I actually reached out to him through my Instagram account to coordinate the tour.
Fez is the handicraft capital of Morocco and you can find artisans throughout the city weaving rugs, woodworking, designing leather goods like Moroccan poufs and more. Omar kindly asked several of them if we could take their photo, which they obliged. Omar gave them a tip. I wouldn’t have felt comfortable taking photos of strangers, so it was nice to have a local make the ask in their native language.
He taught me the five elements of street photography that make a great photo story. Here they are: Person(s) at work, landscape, details, scenery, and portrait. I hope my photographs help you imagine your vacation in Fez!
Where to Eat
- The Ruined Garden - Super delicious and very affordably priced spot in a lush garden. We came for a casual lunch. They do cooking classes here too!
- Dar Roumana - We had an incredible dinner here! This place is a little hard to find (we paid a local a few bucks to help us find it) but once you are there -- wow! The intricate detailing of the interior is outstanding! Be sure to arrive in time for a sunset drink on the rooftop. This place is more upscale.
- Fez Cafe (aka Le Jardin des Biehn) - This is pricer than Hidden Garden, but our lunch was delicious and the garden scene is beyond lovely!
- Karawan Riad - The food was good but the experience is what made it really special. We ate on the beautiful rooftop with sweeping views of Fez. No one else was up there but us, so it was romantic!
- Riad Fes - This fancy hotel does excellent Moroccan cuisine. The space is impressive and we enjoyed traditional live music playing during dinner. Again, you’ll want to arrive at sunset for a pre-dinner drink on their gorgeous rooftop.
Where to Stay
It’s best to stay in a riad, which is a Moroccan house with a courtyard. Many riads have become boutique hotels and you can find them at varying price points.
Karawan Riad - We had a fantastic stay at Karawan Riad! It is a five-star boutique hotel with only seven luxury suites. Be sure to explore the riad because there are several hidden rooms that are beautifully decorated and open for guests to enjoy. Breakfast is included and there is also a spa and restaurant.
7 Things to Do in Fez
- Visit the tanneries - The world-class leather producing methods of the iconic tanneries in Fez have remained virtually unchanged since the medieval times. This is also the best area to buy leather goods including bags, poufs, and babouches (Moroccan slippers).
- Jnan Sbil Gardens - These are beautifully landscaped public gardens. You will find 18.5 acres of carefully manicured flower beds, culture trees, and palms as well as tourists and locals alike taking a break from the hustle and bustle of the medina.
- Rooftop Drinks - Get drinks on a rooftop to enjoy sweeping views of the city! (Go to a hotel rooftop bar like Riad Fes if you want an alcoholic drink.)
- Relax with some mint tea -- Do like the locals do and pause to enjoy some hot tea with fresh herbs!
- Shop in the Souks - In the medina, you’ll see all sorts of craftsmen making everything from ceramics to copper goods. You’ll likely stumble upon a rug store. We found ourselves negotiating with a salesman at Palais D’Arts Fes over a yummy glass of mint tea, and ended up buying a Berber rug. FYI: It’s common to negotiate a price that is at least half of the salesman’s original asking price (we did!).
- Get a Hammam - This moroccan spa treatment is one to experience -- however don’t expect it to be relaxing. A woman essentially scrubs off your dead skin to reveal softer, smoother skin. Honestly, it was almost painful at times! I still really enjoyed my hammam at the Karawan Riad and I coupled it with the most amazing massage. My skin was super soft! My husband, however, found it a bit too intense to enjoy.
- Take a Walking Tour - Fez is extremely difficult to navigate, so it’s recommended to hire a guide to help you see the best examples of architecture, history and culture of the city. Your hotel/riad can help you book a guide.
How to Get There
We flew into to Casablanca (via a layover in London from Chicago). Then we hired a driver to take us to Fez. It takes three hours to drive. There is also public transportation that takes a bit longer but is cheaper.
How Long Should You Stay in Fez?
We had three days and three nights in Fez. I thought that was a great amount of time to casually see the city. This included time to relax at the spa. If you can stay at least two nights so you're not rushed, I'd recommend it!
Heads up! Be skeptical of "The road is closed" comment
Its not uncommon for young people to approach tourists offering to show you the way or tell you the road you're going down is closed -- when it's not. This false information is meant to confuse you so you feel that you need their guidance.
My husband and I actually fell for the "road is closed" trick on our way to dinner one night. The young man who told us that took us another route but still brought us to the restaurant that we couldn't find. In the end, he asked for money. Then he said it was not enough, so we gave him a few extra bucks and he left us alone. It was a little uncomfortable, but honestly the guidance was helpful! Apparently this is a common practice but violence is not -- they just want to earn a few dollars (albeit in a tricky way!)
I found that people are nice in Fez. If you get lost, ask a shop owner. You can also often coordinate a porter through your hotel or restaurant who can walk you to your destination.
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Fez is SUCH an incredible city! If you are planning a trip to Morocco, I highly recommend including it in your itinerary.
If you are visiting Marrakech, be sure to check out my secret to avoid the line at the famous Majorelle Gardens!
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